To create the smoky eye look, you will need the following things:
Base Color: This color will be swept all over the lid. It should be pale and have a shimmer or sheen to it. Some recommended colors include Soul, Cultured Pearl, Nude Beach, Hyacinth, Opal, Snow and City Lights.
Contour Color: This shade should be a drastic contrast to the base color. It should be dark and rich, and if possible, have a little shimmer or sheen to it. This will help the color "blend" better. Matte shades of shadow often times are very dry in texture, and it can be difficult to get a smooth and even application of color. If you do choose a contour color that is matte, select and extremely shimmery base color, like Cultured Pearl or Nude Beach. Some suggested shimmery contour colors include Drama, 1990's, Foliage, Emotion and Dragonfly. Examples of matte contour colors would be Faux Mink, Bordeux, Sailor or Green Tea.
Liner Shadow: The liner shadow should definatly be chosen in the darkest shade possible. It should almost always be black, or have a strong black base. This is THE MOST IMPORTANT element in the whole look-It makes or breaks it. Suggested colors would be Midnight Sky, Eclipse, Black Emerald, Bark and Onyx.
Tools Needed: Double Ended Precision Brush, Eye Defining Brush, Eyeliner Brush, Angled Liner Brush or Double Ended Shaping Brush, Maximum Coverage Face Brush, Flawless Face Brush.
Step One: Apply the Base Color all over the eyelid, from lashline to crease.
I suggest you "foil" the color to glam it up. Apply it dry for a more soft and subtle look. Here I am foiling Nude Beach with the Double Ended Precision Brush.
Step Two: Use the Double Ended Precision Brush(you may have to dry it off) to grab a small amount of your contour color and draw a line in your crease. I'm using Drama.
First I load it onto the tip of the brush:
Then I draw the line, following my crease:
Note: My eyes are downturned, which means the corners turn downward. I keep the majority of my contour color in the center of my eye, just above the iris when I look straight ahead. If I didn't have downturned eyes, I would "wing" the shadow out more toward the edges of my eyes to accent how "upturned" they are. Doing this to my eye would make my eyes look tired and make me look like I'm sad or depressed. I'll show you a trick when we apply liner that will help to "upturn" my "downturned" eyes.
Step Three: After applying the Contour Color in a line in the crease of my eye, I begin to blend it using the other end of my Double Ended Precision Brush. Use back and forth swipes, like a windshield wiper!
I may also break out the Eye Defining Brush to help blend.
Load the brush with a small amount of the Contour Color to add depth for a more dramatic look, and also to blend out any spots that are looking patchy, or where the color has "grabbed."
For maximum dramatic effect, apply the Contour Color wet(foiled),
Then blend the edges after the stripe dries, using the same windshield wiper move as before. I use the soft black end of the Double Ended Precision Brush for this.
Step Four: I definatly recommend applying the Liner Shadow wet for any smoky eye look, even the most subtle ones. This is where the look becomes super-smoky. Get your liner into the proper consistancy, then begin drawing a thin line as close as humanly possible to the lashline. At this point, it doesn't matter how accurate or straight the line is, just make sure there are no gaps between the eyeliner and the lashline. I work in small, "dashed" lines, connecting them as I go. I use the Eyeliner Brush, and am working with the color Onyx.
You may need to hold the eye tight, like this:
Note: This is where I use my trick to turn my eyes up. This also can give the look a slightly more "cat" effect.(For a super-retro look, apply your base color thickly or foiled, then apply just a thick line like this against the lashline. Instant go-go mod look!) I "wing" the tip of the line up, like this:
Step Five: Line underneath the eye as well.
For more dramatic looks, connect the line at the ends of the eyes closest to the ears. No matter how far across the eyes its applied, keep this line fairly thin.
Step Six: Using the other end of the Double Ended Precision Brush to "smudge" the Liner Shadow into a smokey line. This takes away any definition to the line, and gives it a smoky effect. It also drives the majority of the color down into the lashline to help define the lashes and make them look fuller. Use the windshield wiper move, but in smaller, firmer shorter strokes. More like your using the eraser on a pencil to rub it out.
To amp up the dramatic effect, go back with an Angled Liner Brush or the soft black end of the Double Ended Precision Brush and trace over the liner you just smudged with a small amount of dry Liner Shadow. Blend with the empty Angled Liner Brush after application, or use that soft black end of the Double Ended Precision Brush.
You can also trace over the liner under the eye in the same way. This really makes the eye pop, and is for a very dramatic look.
Caution: This might create fall-out. I recommend holding a tissue under the eye, flush against the cheek, or pat on a thick layer of Mineral Veil with the large Maximum Coverage Face Brush. This, and the liner that may fall off the brush, can be easily swept away at the end with a Flawless Face Brush.
This is what we have right now:
Step Seven: Apply 2-3 coats of the richest, blackest mascara you can find. Tease, pull, reapply and coat those lashes until they are at their maximum volume. of course, less mascara with a more subtle look. I'm using The Big Tease Mascara in Blackest Black.
One eye with Mascara:
Step 8: Sweep away Mineral Veil with Flawless Face Brush
And that's it. Now, pair the look with a soft but contoured cheek, soft glossy lips and perfectly arched eyebrows. You are ready!!
Seen here: Thistle Blush with Pure Radiance over the top. Auburn and Redhead Browcolors, equal parts mixed. Neutral Lipliner and Bambi Buxom Lipgloss.
Before and After side-by-side: